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Oud – What Is It, Where Does It Come From, Why Is It So Expensive & How Is It Used in Niche Fragrances?

What is Oud (Agarwood) And Where Does It Come From?

Oud, also known as agarwood, is very common in the Middle East but comes primarily from Southeast Asia. Oud is produced in the Aquilaria tree when it becomes infected, typically from insects. Other things such as thunderstorms can cause openings in the tree’s bark, which give entry to microorganisms to enter the tree. Fungus or mold develops in the tree and the tree produces a thick, dark resin called oud to fight off infection. It is said that only 10% of the trees are able to produce oud, which makes it much more of a valuable ingredient. The bark around where the oud is produced is then carved off and these wood chips are then used to produce oud that is used in niche fragrances.

Why Is Oud So Expensive?

In the Middle East, it is held in high regard and it is used in temples kind of like an incense and it is also known as “black gold” there due to it’s expensive price. There are several varieties but high-quality oud can be more expensive than gold in weight. On the extreme side, the best oud can cost upwards of almost $10million per kilogram! There are even some very wealthy individuals out there that have personal oud scouts that travel throughout the world to find the best oud for their personal consumption.

Due to its unique scent and high dollar value, the Aquilaria tree has been put on the endangered species list and even cartels have invaded forests with guns to chop down trees to sell on the black market. An excellent YouTube video can be found here that gives a great overview of oud and goes more in depth.

How Is Oud Used In Niche Fragrances?

Oud has become increasingly popular over the last 10 years and it will be interesting to see if it will still remain popular due to the scarcity of oud. My guess is that eventually oud will be produced in a lab once the supply becomes more scarce or depleted. 

When used in niche fragrances, oud is typically used as a base note. Due to its high value, most perfumers will want the oud scent to shine in their niche fragrances. Oud is a difficult and powerful ingredient to work with because on its own, it has a very animalic smell, almost as if you are in a barn. Therefore, oud must be mixed with a careful hand with other high-quality notes in order to produce a fine-smelling fragrance. One ingredient that is commonly mixed with oud is rose. It is even said it has taken many years for certain perfumers to master working with oud.

Before purchasing an oud fragrance, I recommend you sample it first to get a feel for the fragrance and scent. Oud has a very unique scent but when mixed properly, it can smell heavenly. Oud for me personally is probably my favorite note in a niche fragrance since whenever I wear it I feel a sense of confidence. I think it’s best suited for night time or a formal event, as well as in the colder months during fall/winter. Below are some of my favorite oud fragrances.

Some Of My Favorite Niche Oud Fragrances

Initio Parfums – Oud For Greatness

Creed – Royal Oud 

Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Oud Silk Mood Extrait de Parfum

Tom (this was my first niche fragrance purchase!)

Louis Vuitton – Ombre Nomade